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Challenging development of wax containing cosmetics

apr 26 2021

The development of new cosmetic products has become challenging due to various changes in consumer behavior. Cosmetic products must fulfil ethical, ecological and natural standards in the same way as they should be highly performing and stable. Especially semi-solid and solid cosmetics with a high amount of waxes (creams, lipstick, ointments, …) need special attention.

The use of waxes needs specific preparation temperatures above the melting point to obtain stable emulsions and homogeneous mixtures. Cooling ramp and preparation method impact the crystalline structure of the final product. Moreover, stability is increased and need longer evaluation periods, resulting in longer time to market. 

RheolaserCRYSTAL improves the development of new cosmetic formulations by:

  1. Comparing raw materials and selecting the right one – knowing the exact melting point of pure and mixed waxes improve the formulation, avoid production problems and accelerate development.

  2. Evaluate the stability at each step of the development – Thermal cycling allows to do accelerate stability tests of highly stable and solid cosmetic products to choose only the right formulations. 

  3. Optimize the formulation for upscaling – a validated lab formulation may face problems during upscaling. Especially in the case of waxes the cooling ramps have a significant impact on crystallization behavior and of the end-product properties. 

Using RheolaserCRYSTAL can significantly reduce costs and time, while ensuring high performance and stability. This is possible thanks to the highly sensitive Diffusing Wave Spectroscopy (DWS) method that allows to study the phase transitions during heating and cooling. The method is based on a light backscattering technique, which determines the microstructure dynamics as a function of temperature. It was shown that this microdynamic increases significantly during phase transitions, giving rise to characteristic sharp peaks for crystallization, melting and polymorphic transitions. This allows to study complex formulations and identify characteristic thermal profiles.

When applied with thermal cycles, the method gives an indication on the resistance of the product to the thermal stress and so the stability of the formulation. A stable sample will show the same response over all cycles, whereas an unstable one will show a decrease or an increase of the signal with increasing cycle number. This stability test, which is fast (several hours) and applicable on solid and extremely stable samples, accelerates the development of new formulations by ruling out unstable formulations at an early stage.

For further information see our application section or contact us. 

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